The Blister
Step 1: To make the blister, once again we had to split up into groups in a similar fashion to the tray. I was with the same partner so it made the process of communication very easy. This time our projects did not have to match, rather it was a case of not enough material therefore we had to share resources.
Step 2: Three to four people had to share a large sheet of material. we had to use a scribe and ruler once again to measure a piece of metal that fit on top of the stencil we were about to use in our group work. The metal had to be about 50mm more on every side to allow for shrinking and expansion.
This piece was then cut on the guillotine.
Step 3: My partner and i selected the template of a teardrop that we wanted to use. There was a selection of over thirty, however we chose number FIFTEEN (15), which was largish type water drop. These templates were created and cut using the CNC laser cutter in the backroom of the workshop.
Step 4: My partner and i had to take turns to do our job so we took it upon ourselves to help each other when necessary. The CNC cutter left little tabs on the cut so that it would not fly off while cutting, therefore a bandsaw the little tabs were cut to create a perfect template of a teardrop on both pieces created, as we received two copies of the template.
Step 5: The metal sheet cut was placed between the two templates and screwed together together as accurately as possible to ensure the metal sheet within did not move or shift whilst being worked on. This is important as it can cause complications and errors in the overall design of the tear drop that can delay the process and ultimately create a defect in the end product.
Step 6: Using the white mallet, the metal piece within was tapped gently using the sharp end to push the sheet down in to the space created. The goal was to create a downward curve to mimic the shape of a three dimensional teardrop. This process was repeated until i could not hammer anymore due to the fact that i had reached the workbench below which would make the tear drop begin to form a flat surface.
Note: it was extremely important that heavy hitting was not used as any little mistake could have altered the finish product, therefore i also used a variety of other hammers and objects that fit the template, that allowed for smooth work and minimal damage to the metal sheet. This was particularly in the form of a curved piece of timber being hit by the mallet as well as placing a smaller wooden mallet in the template and hitting it with the larger mallet softly and consistently in a downward motion.
Step 7: I used small timber pieces, drilled them into the bottom of the template to hoist up the overall job, thus allowing me to continue working on the teardrop with out it hitting a flat surface. i aimed to get the peak of the teardrop to go beyond the template by 5mm and ended up getting it to about 15mm as shown.
Step 8: I equally measure a from the centre to the edge on each side and slightly trimmed the edges so that the blister looked neat and tidy as well as accurate. This allowed me to begin the final stage of the project, finishing.
Step 9: The flat head hammer was used slightly in this project to soften and straighten out any little bumps created but there not many as no sharp or metal objects were used directs on the blister.
Step 10: Finally the job was sanded both in the workshop and also at home to create a smooth finish so that it could photographed.
Note: Safety was employed throughout the whole process in the form PPE. (safety glasses, ear plugs and safety masks)
Step 2: Three to four people had to share a large sheet of material. we had to use a scribe and ruler once again to measure a piece of metal that fit on top of the stencil we were about to use in our group work. The metal had to be about 50mm more on every side to allow for shrinking and expansion.
This piece was then cut on the guillotine.
Step 3: My partner and i selected the template of a teardrop that we wanted to use. There was a selection of over thirty, however we chose number FIFTEEN (15), which was largish type water drop. These templates were created and cut using the CNC laser cutter in the backroom of the workshop.
Step 4: My partner and i had to take turns to do our job so we took it upon ourselves to help each other when necessary. The CNC cutter left little tabs on the cut so that it would not fly off while cutting, therefore a bandsaw the little tabs were cut to create a perfect template of a teardrop on both pieces created, as we received two copies of the template.
Step 5: The metal sheet cut was placed between the two templates and screwed together together as accurately as possible to ensure the metal sheet within did not move or shift whilst being worked on. This is important as it can cause complications and errors in the overall design of the tear drop that can delay the process and ultimately create a defect in the end product.
Step 6: Using the white mallet, the metal piece within was tapped gently using the sharp end to push the sheet down in to the space created. The goal was to create a downward curve to mimic the shape of a three dimensional teardrop. This process was repeated until i could not hammer anymore due to the fact that i had reached the workbench below which would make the tear drop begin to form a flat surface.
Note: it was extremely important that heavy hitting was not used as any little mistake could have altered the finish product, therefore i also used a variety of other hammers and objects that fit the template, that allowed for smooth work and minimal damage to the metal sheet. This was particularly in the form of a curved piece of timber being hit by the mallet as well as placing a smaller wooden mallet in the template and hitting it with the larger mallet softly and consistently in a downward motion.
Step 7: I used small timber pieces, drilled them into the bottom of the template to hoist up the overall job, thus allowing me to continue working on the teardrop with out it hitting a flat surface. i aimed to get the peak of the teardrop to go beyond the template by 5mm and ended up getting it to about 15mm as shown.
Step 8: I equally measure a from the centre to the edge on each side and slightly trimmed the edges so that the blister looked neat and tidy as well as accurate. This allowed me to begin the final stage of the project, finishing.
Step 9: The flat head hammer was used slightly in this project to soften and straighten out any little bumps created but there not many as no sharp or metal objects were used directs on the blister.
Step 10: Finally the job was sanded both in the workshop and also at home to create a smooth finish so that it could photographed.
Note: Safety was employed throughout the whole process in the form PPE. (safety glasses, ear plugs and safety masks)
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